What does a pre-purchase inspection include?

A pre-purchase inspection is how you see the car before you pay for it. A short list — brakes, engine, tires — does not tell you what was actually looked at.

This is the sheet I use on dealer lots and private driveways across Greater Vancouver. The same items become the written report, with photos of the findings.

How I rate each item

Every line on the sheet gets one of these marks:

• Pass — it is in serviceable shape for what I can see.
• Attention — it works, or it is wearing, and it should change the price or your plan.
• Fail — it is a reason to walk away, or to treat the inspection as failed.

When you are deciding whether to buy, I also leave a recommendation: proceed, proceed with negotiation, or a failed inspection. Jeff's Score sits under that, from 0 to 10. If the visit is not a purchase, I can leave the recommendation blank.

1. Identity and records

I confirm the car in front of me is the car in the listing. That means the VIN labels I can see, whether the kilometres match the wear on the wheel, pedals, and seat, how many keys you are getting, and any service papers that are actually on hand. Modifications get a note. I do not certify open recalls.

2. Body, paint, and prior repair

I measure the paint thickness on each body panel with a gauge. When a panel has been repainted, I check the quality of the repair. I also look at panel gaps, overspray, and rust, and I photograph dents, dings, and chips.

3. Glass and lights

• Windshield chips and cracks, including the area in front of a camera.
• Wiper blades and whether the wash hits the glass.
• Headlamps for moisture, haze, and function, plus markers, brake lamps, reverse lamps, and signals.

4. Interior

Seats are compared with the kilometres. I look for stains, a sagging headliner, and the smell once any fragrance fades. Mats come up. Moisture in the carpet or the spare well is a different problem from a dirty car.

5. Controls you will use on day one

Windows, locks, mirrors, the horn, camera views, and defrost. Warning lamps that stay on after the engine is running are findings. A sunroof is checked when the car has one, and marked not equipped when it does not.

6. Engine bay

I separate a film of seepage from an active drip. The belt, hoses, battery, air filter, and mounts are visual. If the engine was already hot when I arrived, I say I did not see a cold start.

7. Hybrid and EV

Hybrids and electric vehicles get this checklist. I do not inspect Teslas. A gas or diesel car skips this section.

• Orange high-voltage cables and warning labels.
• Ready state and warning lamps.
• Inverter, converter, and power electronics.
• Hybrid and EV coolant level and leaks.
• Charge-port door, latch, pins, and moisture.
• The portable charge cable, when the car plugs in.
• High-voltage battery shield, from the ground.
• Battery health from the scan tool.
• Regenerative braking.
• Drive-motor or reduction-gear noise.

8. Fluids

I check the level and condition of the engine oil, coolant, brake fluid, and washer fluid. I also check power steering fluid if the car has it, and transmission fluid if it can be checked.

9. Transmission and drivetrain

I check transmission engagement, and leaks at the pan gasket and cooler lines. I also check the differential, the transfer case, and 4x4 engagement.

10. Steering and suspension

I check the steering rack components, struts, shocks, control arms, ball joints, and bushings.

11. Brakes

Brake pad thickness is measured at each corner, and rotor condition is assessed. I also check the parking brake, calipers, brake lines, and the rest of the system.

12. Tires and wheels

Tread is recorded at each corner, along with whether the sizes match and whether the wear is even. Cupping or a feathered edge usually means the suspension or the alignment, not just a new set of tires.

13. Undercarriage

I check for rust on the undercarriage and frame. Photos are taken and included in the report.

14. Heat and air conditioning

I check cooling and heating performance, and airflow distribution.

15. Road test

I road test the car if the seller permits it. I check power delivery, shift quality, suspension noise, braking, and the rest of how it drives.

16. The scan

I read fault codes, and I also read live data. I look for readings that are off. No warning light and no codes does not mean the car is running right.

What you get

• An electronic inspection report, with photos of the findings, shared by email.
• My recommendation and estimated repair costs.
• Because the report is emailed, you do not have to be at the inspection if you are busy.